In which way do particles of water move in deep water?
- Correct Answer: circles
- ellipses
- currents
- parabolas
Explanation: In deep water, particles of water just move in circles. They don’t actually move closer to shore with the energy of the waves. However, near the shore where the water is shallow, the waves behave differently. They start to drag on the bottom, creating friction (see Figure below ). The friction slows down the bottoms of the waves, while the tops of the waves keep moving at the same speed. This causes the waves to get steeper until they topple over and crash on the shore. The crashing waves carry water onto the shore as surf.
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